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April 03, 2011

Kampung Pulo, Garut, West Java

KAMPUNG PULO is a hamlet consisting of just six houses and a small mosque, with historic significance. Originally the inhabitants were Hindu, but they were converted to Islam by a certain Embah Dalam Arif Mohammed in the first half of the 17th century. His grave lies on a hill next to a restored temple (see tip Candi Cangkuang).


It is said that Embah Dalem was defeated in his assault on the Dutch, and so ashamed that he dare not meet his king, Sultan Agung. Instead he hid himself in kampung Pulo. He was buried here and left six daughters and a son. The six houses were for the six daughters; until this day it is the women who inherit the houses. The men have to leave after they marry, so have the daughters for whom there is no house. No houses can be added in the precincts, a daughter settles in after her mother dies.


The people of Kampung Pulo maintain certain rules and rituals. They may not visit the graves of their ancestors on Wednesday, may not sound a big gong or keep big cattle in the kampung. The shape of the roofs of the house may not be altered. On the 14th of Maulud month the sacred objects are cleansed, like keris, precious stones and bullets.

The name Kampung Pulo means "island hamlet", but in reality the kampung lies on a peninsula. There is a small museum, in need of upgrading. The caretaker obligingly explains the history of the site, and the women are happy to show you inside their house. Do not forget to leave a small amount of money.


How to get there :
- From Bandung, take the toll road to Cileunyi, follow the street signs to Garut. From Garut take the road north to Leles.
- Or from Cipanas turn east at the corner near hotel Cipaganti, and when you reach the Garut-Leles road turn north.
- At Leles town square, find a sign to Candi Cangkuang pointing East. It is 3 km along this road to the site.
You may drive on until the parking and cross the lake by raft to reach Kampung Pulo (Rp 3.000 p.p./person, or charter Rp. 50.000,-). But, as the hamlet lies on a peninsula, you may also park near the lotus pond some 200 m before the parking, and take the path to the right along the pond. At the end of the earthen path you reach a concrete paved path. Follow this left to Kampung Pulo. Through the kampung you reach Candi Cangkuang.





Cangkuang Temple (Candi Cangkuang), Garut, West Java



Compared with Hindu temples in Central-Java, Candi Cangkuang is only a simple construction. Yet it is special in that it is one of only three known Hindu temples in West-Java, all discovered recently. The other two are Candi Rancaekek near Bandung and Candi Jiwa near Karawang. It is located in a small island in the middle of a lake called also Cangkuang.


Candi Cangkuang, located at Cangkuang village, was discovered accidentally in 1966, when archeologists were searching for the grave of one Embah Dalem Arif Muhammad (see tip Kampung Pulo). What was found consisted only of the foundation and a heap op rubble. Restauration was completed in 1976.


The Hindu temple stands on a small hill, facing the lake - away from the grave of the muslim Embah Dalem Arif Mohammed. The site is surrounded by several species of trees which may be of interest to botanists.


How to get here :

- From Bandung, take the toll road to Cileunyi, take follow the street signs to Garut. From Garut take the road north to Leles.
- or From Cipanas turn east at the corner near hotel Cipaganti, and when you reach the Garut-Leles road turn north.
- At Leles town square, find a sign to Candi Cangkuang pointing East. It is 3 km along this road to the site.
You may drive on until the parking and cross the lake by raft to reach the temple (Rp 3.000 p.p./person, or charter around Rp. 50.000,-). However, the temple is not really situated on an island, it is just a peninsula. So you may also park near the lotus pond some 200 m before the parking, and take the path along the pond to the right. At the end of the earthen path you reach a concrete paved path. Follow this left through Kampung Pulo to the temple. The kampung and the temple are adjacent.